Hiiumaa is a different country. There are neither dozens of churches nor massive manors, or kilometres of stone fences lining village streets. There is only one castle, some deserted farms and a few lighthouses. But if you know where to look, you can feel the greatness of the past – once there was a time when the peninsulas and villages were still open to waters, boats gathered at Orjaku harbour to survive the freezing winters, a pirate hid his fortune in a castle behind secret doors and double ceilings and a time when Leigar, the hero of Hiiumaa, animated the island with his wondrous deeds.